Vom Fashion Shop zur eigenen Kollektion – oder doch umgekehrt? SIGHTLINE ist ein junges Modelabel aus Wien, erhältlich im (fast) gleichnamigen Store in der Kirchengasse. Wir trafen die Inhaberin und Designerin Vivien Sakura Brandl zur Präsentation ihrer neuen Kollektion „Traces“.
Man kann noch so oft um den Globus jetten – oft liegt das Gute so nah. Genauer gesagt in der Wiener Kirchengasse. Dort finden wir uns wieder, direkt im kleinen Store Sight, der Label aus Berlin und Wien, aber auch dänische Avantgardisten wie Henrik Vibskov führt. Das Markensortiment variiert je nach Saison und ermöglicht Inhaberin Vivien Sakura Brandl, ihrem kreativen Gespür für Mode freien Lauf zu lassen. Ein Raum voll toller Mode, die man selbst kuratieren darf – welche Modebegeisterte fände das nicht traumhaft? Da ist die Frage naheliegend: Was kam zuerst, die Idee zum Store oder die zum Label? Vor neun Jahren wurde Sight eröffnet. Der Traum, selbst eine Plattform für besondere Mode zu haben, wurde damit zwar zuerst umgesetzt, der Gedanke an eigene Kreationen war aber die ganze Zeit da. 2014 begann die Arbeit an der ersten Kollektion „Nine to Five“. Die Bestätigung folgte bereits nach der ersten Präsentation in Tokio, wo ihr Label SIGHTLINE gleich von einem Concept Store geordert wurde. Es folgten zwei weitere Kollektionen sowie die aktuelle H/W 2016 Kollektion, die wir uns ganz genau ansehen durften.
„Traces“ spielt mit einer Vielzahl kultureller Referenzen und Echos persönlicher Erinnerungen. Jeder Schnitt ein bisschen oversized, offene Nähte, Kimono-Anlehnungen – eine klare Hommage an Japan. Und auch sehr ausgeklügelte Ärmellösungen fallen uns sofort ins Auge. Wärmende Merinowolle und Cord-Stoffe treffen auf fließenden Jersey und leichten Denim. Weiß, Blau und Schwarz dominieren die Kollektion und unterstreichen den gewollten Minimalismus
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. So viel wie möglich wird lokal in Wien produziert. An den Prototypen tüftelt Vivien aber immer selbst und das sehr lange. Denn alles in allem lebt SIGHTLINE von verstecktem Detailreichtum. Denn wer hätte z.B. gedacht, dass die Designerin die Wollfransen der Pullover und T-Shirts alle persönlich per Hand aufknüpft? Ein Pulloverärmel ist so in ca. sechs Arbeitsstunden fertig verziert. „Ich mache das am liebsten vor dem Fernseher, das ist sehr entspannend. Im Preis ist das nicht mitgerechnet, das würde den Betrag verdreifachen.“, erzählt Vivien lächelnd, während wir uns noch einen Happen vom köstlichen Sushi gönnen, das ihre aus Japan stammende Mutter eigens für die Präsentation handgemacht hat.
Eine Frage brennt uns aber noch auf der Zunge: Wien und Mode, was kommt Vivien dabei als erstes in den Sinn? „Es hat sich bereits sehr viel getan
. Das Bewusstsein der Wiener ist vielleicht noch ausbaufähig, es gibt aber eine Community, die auch bereit ist, den Preis dafür zu zahlen. Früher brachte man mit Wien und Mode nur den Namen Helmut Lang in Verbindung. Aber heute passiert mehr, nicht nur in der High Fashion sondern auch bei kleinen Independent-Labels, die sich zusehends vermehren. Ich glaube daher, dass das gerade nur der Anfang von etwas größerem ist.“
Da können wir nur zustimmen!