Mit ihrem eigenen Label erfüllt sich die Designerin Elisaveta Fateeva keinen persönlichen Traum -vielmehr die Träume von Frauen, die sich nach dem perfekten flachen Schuh sehnen.
Geboren im russischen Tomsk, aufgewachsen in Riga/Lettland, kam Elizaveta Fateeva im Alter von 17 Jahren nach Wien
. Sie studierte Mode an der Angewandten in Wien, entwarf für Raf Simons und Jil Sander und wechselte im Jahr 2012 zu Lanvin nach Paris. Dort ist sie seitdem für die gesamte Männerschuhlinie verantwortlich. Sie pendelt zwischen Paris und Wien, denn in Wien ist sie zu Hause. Zeit zum Erholen hat Elizaveta Fateeva hier trotzdem nicht mehr, denn gerade hat sie ihr eigenes Schuhlabel präsentiert. Geplant war das nicht, aber Zufälle bestimmen eben oft den Lauf des Lebens. Zum Interview im Café Korb trägt sie Slip-ons von Vans -eines der rund 50 Paar, die sie besitzt -und erzählt, warum es bei Elizaveta Fateeva ausschließlich flache Schuhe geben wird.
Foto: Alexander Nussbaumer
Ein SCHUH muss einen kurzen Fuß etwas länger machen und einen langen SCHÖN aussehen lassen. Elizaveta Fateeva, Designerin (* 1983)
Sie sind erfolgreich bei Lanvin. Wie sind Sie auf die Idee gekommen, Ihr eigenes Label zu gründen?
Hätte mir das vor einem Jahr jemand gesagt, hätte ich ihn wahrscheinlich für verrückt erklärt. Aber dann war ich bei der FIAC (Anm.: Messe für zeitgenössische Kunst in Paris) und sah, dass die Galeristinnen alle flache Schuhe tragen. Das war der Schlüsselmoment, in dem ich dachte, dass sie eine richtig gute Zielgruppe wären.
Galeristinnen haben extrem hohe Ansprüche an ihre Schuhe. Sie müssen viel stehen, dann sofort zu einem Dinner und später auf eine Party. Da muss man überall sehr repräsentativ aussehen. So habe ich angefangen, diese Idee von einem schönen Schuh, der mehr oder weniger alles kann, zu entwickeln.
Was macht Ihre Schuhe besonders?
Ich wollte zwei Richtungen von einem Schuh erarbeiten, der cool und alltäglich ist, dann aber auch wiederum elegant. Dabei habe ich versucht, eine neue Art von Ballerinas zu entwickeln, weil ich diese eigentlich nicht so gerne mag. Mir hat dieses tiefe Dekolleté am Fuß nie gefallen. Mein Ziel war einfach ein schöner flacher Frauenschuh. Das ist nichts, was ich neu definieren musste, aber es gibt einfach so wenig davon auf dem Markt.
Ihr Stil ist extrem minimalistisch in Farbe und Form…
Ich mag es, wenn ein Outfit manchmal nichtssagend ist, aber trotzdem gut aussieht und man die Qualität schon beim Ansehen spürt. Von der Seite schauen die Schuhe wirklich ziemlich normal aus; man muss sie anziehen, um ihre Extravaganz zu begreifen. Sie sind aus einem Stück Leder gefertigt, es gibt kaum Nähte. Der Clou liegt im Detail, so wie die Öse, die als ein wiederkehrendes Element über die Schuhe der Kollektion wandert. Ich habe sie Millimeter für Millimeter entwickelt, damit sie wie Handschuhe passen
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