Sonia Rykiel, die französische Modedesignerin und „Königin des Strick“ starb am 25. August 2016 im Alter von 86 Jahren. Im Mai 2014 übernahm Julie de Libran das Design für das Modehaus. Die Parkinson-Krankheit machte es Rykiel unmöglich, ihre gut gelaunte Kreativität weiter auszuleben. Julie de Libran, ebenfalls gebürtige Französin, trug das kreative Erbe Rykiels weiter, zuletzt in Form einer Make-up Kollektion für Lancôme – eine Hommage an die große Designerin.
Im Interview, dass vor Sonia Rykiels Tod, zur Lancierung der Make-up Kollektion, gehalten wurde, erzählt Julie de Libran über den Anspruch der Marke und das zentrale Thema Freiheit.
Sie haben die neue Beauty-Kollektion SONIA RYKIEL x LANCÔME designt. Was verbindet die beiden Marken?
Beide haben ein starkes französisches Erbe und teilen ihre Vision von Weiblichkeit, Schönheit und Glamour – verbunden mit viel Freiheit. Die Freiheit für Frauen so zu sein wie sie sind, was ein ganz wichtiger Teil des Selbstverständnisses Sonia Rykiels ist. Das macht Frauen wirklich schön und lässt sie strahlen.
Was ist die Essenz des Rykiel Stils?
Die Liebe zum Lebens, zur Freiheit … Und auch zum Selbstvertrauen. Die Rykiel Frau hat Charakter. Sie trifft selbstbestimmte Entscheidungen und geht Risiken ein.
Das Label Sonia Rykiel existiert seit Dekaden uns ist seinen etablierten Code, wie den Streifen und dem Strick, immer treu geblieben, gilt aber immer noch als modern und edgie. Was ist das Geheimnis dahinter?
Unser Stil ist immer noch in Mode, weil es viel mehr als ein Stil ist- es ist eine Haltung: Die Vision einer glücklichen, kultivierten Frau, die voller Leben ist … Was könnte zeitloser sein? Und die emblematische Mode -Codes des Labels sind ewig: Streifen kommen nicht aus der Mode. Sie sind ein Muster, dass immer aktuell sein wird. Manchmal muss man die Farben verändern, um die aktuellen Trends aufzugreifen, aber nicht mehr.
Sie kamen im Mai 2014 zu Sonia Rykiel. Wie sind Sie in Ihre Rolle als Creative Director eingetaucht?
Mit unendlichem Respekt für diese Modehaus und seinen 40 Jahren in der Geschichte
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. Ich bin in die Vergangenheit des Labels eingetaucht. Ich Stunden damit verbracht die Archive und Bücher zu durchsuchen … Und natürlich traf ich auch Sonia – eine beeindruckende Frau.
Und dann schloss ich die Archive und Bücher und verließ mich auf mein “selektives Gedächtnis”. Ich vertraute auf meine Intuition, um die Essenz des Labels und seine Vergangenheit, kurz die Vision dieser Frau mit der Moderne zu verbinden. Ich startete bei den Streifen, versuchte sie komplett neu zu denken
. Ein Streifen kann sehr viele Dinge sein: ein roter Faden, eine Franse, eine Jacquard-Muster … Als Nathalie Rykiel, die Tochter von Sonia, die erste Kollektion sah , gab sie mir eines der schönsten Komplimente . Sie sagte: ” Es ist nicht Rykiel , aber zugleich ist es so sehr Rykiel .” Ähnlich war es mit der Make-up Kollektion für Lancôme.
Was war der Ausgangspunkt für Ihre Arbeit mit Lancôme?
Ich wollte zeigen, wer der Rykiel Frau wirklich ist. Sie ist lebendig, spontan, hat Spaß und Persönlichkeit. Natürlich waren die Streifen ein Muss.
Hatten Sie von Anfang an bestimmte Farben vor Augen?
Mir war das Mitternachtsblau wirklich wichtig – ein falsches Schwarz, das so unergründlich tief ist. Ich liebe die Nachtfarben und dann wollte ich Rot, weil es eine Signatur-Farbe für Sonia Rykiel ist.
Wie war die Zusammenarbeit mit Make-up Artistin und Lancôme Creative Designer Lisa Eldridge?
Toll, wir sprachen viel über die Identität von Frau Rykiel und fanden so unsere zwei Looks. Einen weichen und frischen und einen anspruchsvolleren, intensiveren Look. Die Lancôme- Frau ist genau wie die Rykiel-Frau vielseitig, kühn und frei. Und sie kann lachen.
Woher kam die Inspiration für die Kampagne mit den Models Daria Werbowy und Alma Jodorowski?
Daria ist eine zuversichtliche, emanzipierte Frau. Alma wirkt unschuldig und hat ein rührendes Gesicht. Rykiel ist eine Marke für Mütter, Töchter, Schwestern, Freundinnen … das Label hat in Fotokampagnen und am Laufsteg immer Frauen gezeigt, die zusammen lachen und eine wunderbare, solidarische Energie ausstrahlen. Das wollten wir fortsetzen.
Nähere Infos zur Beauty-Kollektion Sonia Rykiel x Lancôme finden Sie hier.