Es ist die Königsdisziplin in der Beautywelt: das Parfum. Hier werden aus Blumen Träume, aus Hölzern Verführung und aus Molekülen Gold. Ein guter Duft ist ein Schatz, sowohl auf der ideellen als auch der materiellen Ebene.
Man kann schon von einem alchemistischen Prozess sprechen, wenn aus einer Tonne Rosenblüten über physikalische und chemische Prozesse wenige Fläschchen duftendes, ätherisches Rosenöl gewonnen werden. Wenn das Öl dann in Labors in Fragmente zerlegt, von Meisterhand mit anderen ausgewählten Essenzen vermischt wird und schließlich in einer ganz neuen Form als Parfum wieder in der Welt auftaucht, kann es Gold wert sein -im materiellen Sinne, weil schon alleine der »Jus«, also das Konzentrat eines Luxusdufts, aufgrund seiner Grundzutaten wirklich wertvoll ist. Das bereits erwähnte Rosenöl gehört so wie Neroli-, Oud-, Sandelholzöl, Jasminabsolue und Irisbutter zu den teuersten Rohstoffen.
Besonders spannend sind in dem Zusammenhang die sogenannten Captives -patentierte Duftbausteine, die von den Labors nicht frei am Markt angeboten werden, sondern einzelnen Parfumherstellern vorbehalten sind
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. Sie sollen Exklusivität und einen einzigartigen Duftcharakter garantieren und lösen oft genug genau damit neue Dufttrends aus -eine potenzielle Goldgrube, denn die meisten Menschen sind durchaus dazu bereit, in gute Gerüche zu investieren
Der ideelle Wert vom Duft
Wir verwenden Parfums wie KLEIDUNGSSTÜCKE, um ATTRAKTIV zu wirken und zu kommunizieren.
Robert Müller-Grünow, Duftexperte (* 1968)
Womit wir beim ideellen bzw. emotionalen Wert von Parfums wären. Ein Duft kann, genau wie die Mode, Status, Sinnlichkeit und Schönheit transportieren. Parfumliebhaber plädieren sogar dafür, Duftkreation als eigene Kunstform anzuerkennen. Sie durchforsten Onlineplattformen und Flohmärkte nach alten Stardüften, wie andere nach Bildern oder Designerhandtaschen suchen. Soeben fand ein Flakon »Iris Gris« von Jacques Fath, ein in den 1940ern entwickelter Duft, bei einer Versteigerung um 1 300 Dollar einen neuen Besitzer. Vintagedüfte stehen hoch im Kurs, unter anderem, weil selbst Klassiker oft überarbeitet werden müssen, um sie an gesetzliche Neuerungen anzupassen. In den letzten Jahren wurden viele Duftstoffe als potenziell allergieauslösend verboten. Die historischen Flakons sind also spannende Zeitdokumente. Wobei Experten allerdings warnen: Düfte verlieren mit der Zeit an Charakter und Qualität. Es ist sogar wahrscheinlich, dass sie irgendwann verderben. Wer seine Schätze also lange bewahren will, sollte sie vor Licht und Wärme schützen. Und wer wirklich in die olfaktorische Vergangenheit eintauchen will, dem sei die Osmotheque (osmotheque.fr) in Versailles empfohlen: Hier werden die Klassiker der Parfumgeschichte konserviert und Besuchern auf Duftstreifen zum Riechen angeboten wie in Flakons gefüllte Erinnerungen. Auch das ist Gold wert.
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