So aufregend war die Paris Fashion Week schon lange nicht mehr: Saint Laurent, Lanvin, Dior und Valentino – fast alle wichtigsten Couture-Häuser – zeigen erstmals unter neuen Creative Directoren.
Ganz schön spannend, diese Fashion Week in Paris: Da kehrt das Yves wie der verlorene Sohn zu SAINT LAURENT zurück, dort gräbt Bouchra Jarrar für LANVIN ganz alte Schnittmuster aus und auf VALENTINO und DIOR wartet die Mode-Meute noch ganz gespannt. Denn erst wenn beide Schauen absolviert sind, darf man ein erstes zaghaftes Resümee wagen. Die Show von DIOR findet sich bereits auf den sozialen Medien, aber aktuell spricht jeder noch über Rihanna´s Erscheinen (So dünn! So toll!). Die neue Kreativdirektoren Maria Grazia Chiuri wagte nach 25 Jahren Zusammenarbeit mit Pierpaolo Piccioli, mit dem sie VALENTINO revitalisierte (die Rock-Stud-Heels sind mittlerweile Kult) erste eigene Schritte. In der Kollektion finden sich klassische VALENTINO-Farben wieder, das finden wir etwas mau. Ansonsten lassen wir die Kollektion noch sacken – es gilt eben abzuwarten
Bei Anthony Vaccarello, dem neuen Creative Director von YVES SAINT LAURENT sind wir uns allerdings einig: Wie zu erwarten hat er das Label nicht neu erfunden. Immerhin hat er das ja schon seinem Vorgänger Hedi Slimane überlassen. Der kreierte eine neue Welt, die nach seinem Ausscheiden – zumindest im Social Media Bereich – getilgt wurde. Auf die überproportional in die Höhe geschnellten Verkaufszahlen will wohl keiner verzichten. Aber zurück zu Anthony, der junge belgisch-italienische Designer griff tief ins Archiv und förderte ein paar Klassiker des Hauses wieder zutage
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. Trotzdem versteht er es, den jugendlichen Reiz der Marke (den sie sich unter Hedi Slimane aneignete) weiterleben zu lassen. We like!
Das kann man allerdings von der ersten Kollektion von Bouchra Jarrar nicht unbedingt behaupten. Ihre eigenes Label hat sie mal auf Eis gelegt, um sich ganz um LANVIN zu kümmern. Nur schade, dass Alber Elbaz so große Fußspuren hinterlässt. Da passt sie leider noch lange nicht hinein.