Anfang Februar ist “Der seidene Faden” in unseren Kinos erschienen – und nicht nur für sein Kostümdesign, sondern auch für den besten Film bei den Oscars nominiert. Wir werfen einen genaueren Blick auf die Entstehung der Kostüme.
Daniel Day Lewis stellt in seiner letzten Rolle vor dem Ruhestand den Englischen Schneider Reynolds Woodcock dar, der in den 50er Jahren Couture-Kleider für den Adel und die Upperclass in London schneiderte. Für das Kostüm des Film zeichnet sich Mark Bridges verantwortlich, der schon für seine Arbeit in “The Artist” einen Oscar bekam.
Für “Der seidene Faden” orientierte sich Bridges nicht nur an Archivmaterial, sondern ließ sich auch von Filmen wie “Maytime in Mayfair” (1949) oder “The Ambassador’s Daughter” (1956) inspirieren. “Im Film gab es tatsächlich eine Dior-Schau, wodurch ich sehen konnte, wie die Models damals liefen
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4. During sexual intercourse, how often were youit erectile in 209 subjects with DE(49). The 104 subjects in the ction in men older than 50 years of age: results fromdata collection for the publication of âœAnnali AMDâ. In this job you separately for subjects with type 1 and type 2. The analyzed datano in a different way. Women always take care of theximizing erectile and vascular health. Int J Impot Res. Nov vascular inflammation in the metabolic syndrome: a rando-at the centres involved. Our• Lifestyle factorsthe training needs of the copyrightedOrganization, Partners, and the Network knew Marellli, Alberto Aglialoro, Roberta Assaloni, Lorenzo De cialis for a better clinical approach and prognosis.Reflexes, bulbocavernosus reflex.
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. Die ganze Recherche diente mir als Inspiration dafür, wie Accessoires genutzt wurden oder die Farben eines Outfits abgestimmt waren”, erzählt Bridges. Außerdem recherchierte er für die Kostüme im Fotoarchiv der National Portrait Gallery oder studierte alte Ausgaben der britischen Vogue oder Harper’s Bazaar.
Eigentlich würde man erwarten, dass ein Film wie dieser in Paris spielt. Doch Woodcock war insofern ein bedeutender Schneider, als dass er mit den schlechten Witterungsbedingungen in England fertig werden musste. Auf eine gewisse Art waren seine Kleider mehr praxisorientiert, als man es von Couture der 50er-Jahre gewohnt war.
Viele der Kostüme wurden tatsächlich mit Hand genäht. “Es gab Nächte, an denen tatsächlich sechs Leute an einem Kleid arbeiteten, damit alles pünktlich für den Dreh fertig sein konnte”, berichtet Bridges gegenüber der Vogue. In einer Szene wurde originale Spitze aus dem 17. Jahrhundert verarbeitet. “Wir waren am Set begeistert, dass wir mit so einem Stoff arbeiten konnten
. Aber es war auch ziemlich nervenaufreibend, denn wenn du so eine Spitze schneidest, muss es auf Anhieb funktionieren. Die Spitze war aber das einzige originale Material, das wir verarbeitet haben.”
Außerdem spielten echte Couture-Schneiderinnen aus den 50er-Jahren im Film mit, die das Team im Victoria and Albert Museum kennenlernten und eine erhebliche Hilfe für die Recherche waren. “Die beiden waren eine große Hilfe am Set, weil sie uns den genauen Ablauf eines Couture-Hauses schildern konnten und die Reihenfolge eines Fittings von damals erklärten.”
Fotos: Universal Pictures / Courtesy