Es war vor gefühlt zehn Jahren, als der Hype begann: Plötzlich waren die Gäste der Fashion Shows wichtiger und ihre Looks extravaganter als die, die später auf dem Laufsteg gezeigt wurden. Ein neues Business entstand: Das des Street Style Fotografen. Phil Oh war einer der ersten, die den Hype erkannten und darauf ein erfolgreiches Geschäftsmodell machten. Mit Streetpeeper.com machte er sich schnell einen Namen und unterschrieb einen Fashion Week Vertrag mit der Vogue. “Es ging unfassbar schnell: Was als Hobby begann, war innerhalb kürzester Zeit ein sehr lukratives Geschäft für mich”, erinnert sich der Fotograf. “Als wir mit dem Geschäft anfingen, waren vielleicht 15 Fotografen unterwegs, um Gäste bei Fashion Weeks zu fotografieren. Mittlerweile sind es im Schnitt 250 Fotografen.”
Das Gleichgewicht zwischen Gästen und Fotografen stimmt also nicht mehr
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. Mittlerweile kommt es nicht selten vor, dass das nur noch halb so viele Objekte der Begierde als Fotografen selbst gibt. Das lässt den Konkurrenzkampf zwischen den Street-Künstlern natürlich massiv ansteigen, was wiederum zu Preisdumping auf dem Markt führt. Weil das Angebot größer als die Nachfrage ist.
“Als ich 2011 nach New York zog, war ich komplett überarbeitet und machte bis zu 20.000 Dollar im Monat, weil es so viele Jobs gab”, sagt Street Style Fotograf Adam Katz Sinding. Wenn ich heute für die Fashion Week ausrücke bin ich sehr nervös, weil ich Angst habe, dass mir irgendein junger Fotograf den Rang abläuft, der einfach publiziert werden will und die Bilder verschenkt.” Sein Instagram Account hat fast 500k Follower.
@anastasiiam after @armani in Milan for @wmag * #Le21eme #AdamKatzSinding * SEE MORE on Le21eme.com * #Milan #FW17 #FashionWeek #MFW #Milano #Italia #Italy #Streetstyle #Fashion #Mode #Moda #Armani #Bevza
1,878 Likes, 12 Comments – Adam Katz Sinding (@le21eme) on Instagram: “@anastasiiam after @armani in Milan for @wmag * #Le21eme #AdamKatzSinding * SEE MORE on…”
Fotografen wie Katz Sinding oder Oh sind immerhin diejenigen, denen viele junge Influencer in London, Paris, New York und Mailand ihren Status zu verdanken haben. Von ihnen fotografiert zu werden war ein essentieller Teil des späteren Ruhms und war der Einstieg ins Geschäft.
Heute konzentrieren sich viele Street Style Fotografen auf Randmärkte wie Oslo oder Tokyo, um weiterhin uniques Bildmaterial liefern zu können. Der der Markt scheint übersättigt zu sein, was der Runway-Berichterstattung einen Auftrieb gibt und den Fokus wieder zurück zum Wesentlichen holt: Weg von der Society, hin zum eigentlichen Design