Man darf es ruhig sagen: Die New York Fashion Week steckt in der Krise. Warum Labels nach Paris abwandern.
Morgen geht die Paris Fashion Week los, und wird für mehr Wirbel sorgen als die Vorgänger-Wochen in New York, London und wahrscheinlich Milan. Der Grund ist schnell gefunden: Größen wie Altuzarra und Thom Browne zeigen neuerdings in Paris ihre Shows, und kehren New York somit den Rücken. Für Joseph Altuzarra eine natürliche Entwicklung: “Ich bin Paris geboren und aufgewachsen, ich habe zur Stadt eine tiefe Verbindung”, sagte er gegenüber der Vogue. Dass die Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode den Designer einlud, kommt daher nicht überraschend.
Altuzarra und Browne sind allerdings nicht annähernd die einzigen, die sich über den großen Teich wagen. Proenza Schouler und Rodarte entschieden sich, Teil der Couture-Woche zu werden
. Und auch das Identität der New York Fashion Week scheint ins Wanken zu geraten. Verwundert schüttelten einige den Kopf, als zwei verschiedene neue Logo-Designs für 2017 präsentiert wurden. Die CDFA, die für das Show-Management zuständig ist, als auch die WME-IMG, die sich um die Venues kümmert, treten nicht einheitlich auf.
Die Krise ist teils inhaltlicher Natur. Während Mailand und Paris eine sehr eindeutige Sprache und Regelung für Shows und Designer haben, ist in New York der Mix an Shows verwirrend. Zu sehr setzt man auf Celebrity-Kollektionen, zu wenig auf hohen, künstlerischen Anspruch. Mediale Highlights sind mittlerweile Rihannas “Fenty x Puma” Show.
Natürlich gibt es auch einen kommerziellen Ansporn für Designer, nach Paris zu gehen. Europäische Einkäufer sieht man in New York eher selten. Paris sitzt hier fest im Sattel und hat mit seinem traditionellen Image der Modemetropole schlechthin von Haus aus bessere Karten. Einkäufer von großen Häusern wie Selfridges kamen vor allem nach New York um Thom Browne zu sehen – und der ist mittlerweile nicht mehr dort, was eine Kettenreaktion hervorruft.
Die New York Fashion Week braucht eine neue Identität
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. Namen wie Tom Ford und Marc Jacobs alleine können die Fashion Week in New York nicht alleine beatmen. Ein neues, geradliniges Konzept wäre wichtig, doch Tom Ford ist auch ein Beispiel dafür, dass beispielsweise See-Now-Buy-Now nicht für alle Marken umsetzbar ist.