Sie reisen von Fashion Week zu Fashion Week und sind immer am letzten Stand in Sachen Trends: Moderedakteure. Deshalb werden sie auch gerne im Freundeskreis zu allen wichtigen Mode-Belangen befragt. Hier verrät die DIVA-Chefredakteurin was sie nie wieder beantworten möchte.
Es ist so ähnlich wie mit den Ärzten im Freundeskreis. Kaum trifft Freund A, seines Zeichens Urologe/Gynäkologe/ Orthopäde/Allgemeinmediziner auf der Dinner-Party ein, wird er mit Fragen überworfen. Ist ja auch praktisch und hat bei gedimmten Licht und Champagner mehr Charme als in der kühlen Ordination. Was der befreundete Arzt davon hält … das darf man nur erraten. Nun retten wir Moderedakteure keine Leben, aber sind anscheinend ähnlich begehrt wenn´s um die Beantwortung “wichtiger” Lebensfragen geht. Wir helfen wo wir können und teilen unsere Expertise gerne. Aber bitte fragt uns folgendes nie wieder:
Soll ich das kaufen?
Ganz ehrlich: Keine Ahnung. Ich kenne weder dein Portmonnaie noch deinen Kleiderkasten. Ob du etwas wirklich kaufst, hängt meiner Meinung nach von zwei Faktoren ab. Ersteres ist natürlich das Budget. Das ist klar definiert. Bei zweiterem wird es schon etwas tricky: Wie groß ist dein Begehren? Wenn das besonders groß ist, schaltet sich die Vernunft erfahrungsgemäß sowieso aus und allen Ratschlägen zum Trotz wird gekauft. Aber das, so finde ich zumindest, ist manchmal auch ganz gut so!
Prinzipiell ist die Frage per se aber schon ein Indikator dafür, dass man es nicht kaufen sollte …
Vielleicht hilft aber auch dieses Rechenbeispiel: Kaufe ich ein Investment-Piece wie etwa den wunderschönen Kaschmir-Pullover von Antonia Zander um € 809,- , dann rechne ich mir durch wie oft ich ihn tragen werde. Aus Erfahrung weiß ich: Sehr oft! Also geht die Rechnung so: Preis durch Tragen ergibt Ergebnis. In diesem Fall liegt es bei (gehe mal davon aus, dass ich ihn mindestens 40 Mal anziehe, das Ding ist unverwüstlich und sooo kuschelig!) € 20,225. Das ist der reale Wert. Ein Teil von Zara hingegen, das € 50,- kostet und nur einmal von mir getragen wird, kostet mich € 50,-. Alles klar?
Welche Farben trägt man diesen Herbst?
Meine Lieblingsfrage! Am häufigsten gestellt von meiner Mutter und ihren Freundinnen … Weil ich meist schon die damit verbundene Erwartungshaltung kenne, versuche ich die Antwort runter zu brechen auf ein paar Farbtöne. Aber egal welche Antwort ich gebe, sie ist nie zufriedenstellend. Weil das Gegenüber natürlich Töne erwartet, die dem eigenen Teint schmeicheln oder sich schon in der eigenen Garderobe befinden. Da höre ich dann: “Ach, das stimmt doch nicht! Diesen Herbst ist doch Pink wieder total im Trend, das habe ich schon gesehen und das passt mir ja soooo gut!” Was soll man dazu noch sagen?
Lassen Sie mich durch, ich bin Moderedakteurin!
Aber auch für mich ist es nicht zufriedenstellend, denn: Es gibt keine generellen Farbtrends!!! Sorry, wenn das jetzt enttäuschend ist. Es ist eher so, dass es Strömungen gibt und gewisse Nuancen öfter auftauchen als andere.
Wir Moderedakteure können euch aber beruhigen: Es gibt so etwas wie einen Leitfaden. So tauchen gewisse Farben immer geballt auf gewissen Kleidungsstücken auf. Vor ein paar Saisonen war es der rosafarbene Wintermantel, diesen Sommer die neongelbe Swimwear. Rostrotes Leder in Form von Röcken oder Trenchcoats (Tipp!) ist diesen Herbst zum Beispiel ein großes Thema und wird euch oft begegnen.
Wem das nicht reicht und auf der Suche nach einem generellen Farbkonzept ist, dem empfehle ich Pantone. Das Farbsystem gibt jedes Jahre “the Colour of the year” heraus, die tatsächlich immer ein guter Anhaltspunkt ist
. Dieses Jahr ist es etwa “Living Coral”.
Steht mir das?
Willst du diese Frage wirklich beantwortet haben? Bitte überlege es dir zweimal. Ich kann eine Antwort als Freundin geben – oder auch als Expertin.
Wie heißt diese Tasche schnell noch …?
Ganz ehrlich: Keine Ahnung. Ich bin keine Enzyklopädie. Falls das nun überraschend kommt (“Du musst das noch wissen!”), kann ich nur sagen: Wir müssen auch nicht alles wissen. Vor allem diese Details sind etwas für Fashion Victims, die sich darin verlieren können
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. Moderedakteure haben gar keine Zeit für sowas. Bei uns geht es darum, die einzelnen Kollektionen in einen Kontext zu stellen. Mit den vorhergehenden des jeweiligen Labels, mit den anderen aktuellen Kollektionen und dementsprechend das Beste für euch herauszufiltern. Das Beste kann das Innovativste, das Stärkste, das Aussagekräftigste sein – gebündelt ergibt das “das Modernste”.
Was ist dein Lieblingslabel?
Hab ich keines! Ich kann nur sagen, was mir als besonders große Frau gut passt (Solance London, Marni und die High-Street-Marke COS), aber das passt eben mir gut. Ansonsten folge ich lieber Designern als Marken. Dazu gehören Raf Simons und Phoebe Philo. Leider ist es gerade etwas still um beide geworden, aber ihre Designs sprechen mich einfach an.
Wer auf der Suche nach einer speziellen Marke ist, sollte sich bewusst sein, dass man auch hier ständig nachjustieren muss. Kleidergrößen werden genauso oft angepasst, wie Produzenten geändert (damit ändert sich auch die Qualität) und wie der Designer gewechselt wird. Deshalb würde ich nicht auf Marken, sondern auf Designer setzen.
Tipp: Findet ihr ein wirklich perfektes Teil, dann kauft es doch gleich nochmals! Ich habe diesen Sommer den perfekten Overall entdeckt. Weil das bei einer Körpergröße von 185 cm wirklich schwierig ist, hab ich ihn gleich in drei unterschiedlichen Farben gekauft … und bereue es keine Sekunde.
Was soll ich zu diesem Event anziehen?
Puhhhhh …. Eine Frage die je nach Fragesteller Spaß oder Kopfzerbrechen macht. Je konkreter die Frage ist, desto einfacher. Erst kürzlich kam da eine ganz spezielle Anfrage rein: New York, Vernissage, Künstlerin, hip, Budget klar definiert. Da kann ich helfen! Allerdings bedeutet Hilfe eher: Input. So lautete in konkreten Fall die Antwort: Es sollte edgy, aber schick sein. Gerne auch sexy mit viel Schmuck und perfekten Haaren (total wichtig in der USA!). Das Label Zimmermann passte gut zum Typ der Fragestellerin, kommt aus New York und auf Yoox.com gibt es von der Luxusmarke erschwingliche Kleider zu kaufen. Et voila! Das war einfach, ich freue mich auf die Bilder aus New York.
Prinzipiell gilt aber: Wir Moderedakteure sind keine Stylisten, die euch zuhause assistieren. Und wir kennen euren Kleiderschrank weder auswendig, noch wissen wir um eure Problemzonen.
Vielleicht ist aber folgendes hilfreich: Wer einen großen Event hat, sollte besser etwas wählen, das er zuvor (zumindest schon mal Probe) getragen hat. Bitte auch keine Experimente bei Haare und Make-up! Es geht darum selbstsicher und souverän rüber zu kommen, und das funktioniert nur, wenn man sich zu 100% wohl fühlt.
Welches Label ist gerade hip?
Viele. Aber willst du denn hip sein? Besser ist es, auf Marken zu setzen, die in ihrer Designsprache wirklich nachhaltig sind und trotzdem gerade am Punkt der Zeit. Da würde ich mal sagen: Go for Max Mara und Bottega Veneta!